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How Online Craps is played: Craps can appear daunting to a new player, but the game is actually quite simple: start with a bet on the Pass Line. Roll a 7 or 11 on the first roll and you win. Roll a 2, 3 or 12 and you lose. If any other number is rolled, a ‘point’ is established and you must re-roll that point before rolling a 7 to win. Be sure to take the Free Odds once the Point is made – it’s the best bet in the house.

Online Poker Tournaments Strategy has become a hotly debated topic between online players. The increase in poker tournaments being televised has led to a boom in new tournament players. After watching the pros clash on the final table of a major tournament, many viewers from all over the world immediately jump on their computer, login to their favourite poker site and join a Multi Table Tournament (MTT) or a Sit ‘N’ Go (SNG). There are a lot of poker tournaments online, with different structure and different formats, all of which call for slightly different strategies. If you want to make the final table and win the big prizes, you have to be prepared to play intelligent, disciplined poker, and you have to be willing to adjust your strategy based on the type of tournament you have chosen.

Popularity of Online Poker Tournaments

It’s easy to see why online poker tournaments are so exciting:

1. There’s big money in tournaments. With small buy-ins you have the chance to win huge prize payouts. There are many tournaments online in which you can buy in for as little as $5 and win thousands if you make it to the final table. Almost everyone can see the appeal of turning a small entry fee into a big win.
2. Online tournaments can be for just about every form of poker, including Texas Hold’em, Omaha, Stud. Razz, Badugi, and even mixed games such as H.O.R.S.E.
3. There is an online tournament or SNG starting every second of every day, so you can join one around the clock, whenever you are in the mood for a game.

Types of Online Poker Tournaments

The most common tournament poker structure online is called the “Freezeout”: a multi-table tournament that contains somewhere between 50 players to several thousand players.

The second most common tournament structure is a Sit ‘n’ Go: Usually a single table tournament which begins as soon as a specified number of players register (usually 6, 9 or 10, but sometimes more).

There are also re-buy tournaments where you have the option of buying extra chips during the tournament, as well as Adding On more chips at the end of a Re-buy period (usually an hour or 90 minutes)

Most sites also have ‘freeroll’ tournaments, which have no buy in at all, but still offer prize money. These freerolls are often offered to players who have played a certain amount during the month, or as an incentive to newly registered players.

Now that we have discussed the various forms of poker, click on one of the links below to delve further into the strategy.

These are the blogs of some of the best poker players, both live and online.

Ashton Cartwright Poker Blog  Ashton has been playing poker online since early 2008, and currently plays up to 24 tables simultaneously. He has played tens of thousands of SNGs and tournaments, but is mainly considered a Cash Game player. Although he enjoys the challenge and fun of poker, he is primarily motivated by the significant money to be made from the game.

Aaron Nicastri Poker Blog Currently Aaron plays on Pokerstars and has mostly been playing sit’n'go tournaments. He began playing some large field events with a very small bankroll and then moved across to turbo formats ($12 45 mans in particular).

Jesse McKenzie Poker Blog  ”I am striving to consistently improve. I have goals and aspirations that I will share with you in this blog. I am going to do to a Masters in Services Marketing. I want to be able to earn a living without having to have a fixed place of business.”

Jared Hubbard Poker Blog One of the top SNG players in the world, “jhub3000″ can often be found at the top of the Sharkscope leaderboards.

Daleroxxu Poker Blog Daleroxxu lives in Glasgow, Scotland. His blog documents the highs and lows of an online poker pro through text and video blogs. Holla.

My name is Ashton Cartwright, and I am a professional poker player. Making a living from poker was a goal I set myself from the first moment that I encountered this game, and I am very satisfied with success I have had.

As to how I got interested in poker: I was an avid Magic the Gathering player for several years (nerd for life I’m afraid!), and had been making a small amount of money winning weekly Magic tournaments. At the time I was close friends with the reigning National Champion by the name of Tim He, who was virtually undefeated for several years. Tim stopped suddenly to pursue poker in preference to Magic, and almost immediately placed third in an AAPT at Sydney, winning several hundred thousand dollars.

The idea that there was a game that pays such amazing money was all the inspiration I required to make the switch. I quit Magic almost immediately, and decided to make a serious run at being a professional poker player. I gave myself 2 years, and I said that if I wasn’t profitable enough to make a living from poker after that time that I would quit and find a different game.

How to Become a Professional Poker Player:

My first step was to get an online account set up and play ONLY with play money. I told myself that I would not deposit a single dollar until I had won 100 times the play money chips that I started with. I was playing on Pokerstars at that point, and on that site you start with 1000 in play money chips. I (through poor bankroll management and lack of skill) lost that first 1000 chips once, and then a second time. Since I had now received a total of 3000 chips, and my goal was to make at least 100 times that amount, I set my target at 300,000 in play money chips. It took me approximately 45 days of almost constant play, but it assuredly taught me the fundamentals of poker, and how to play tight in particular (as I contend that tight play is the only effective strategy to use in play money games).

On the 3rd of April 2008 I made my first deposit online of $50. I had read all the Harrington books by then, and several of the Sklanzky books as well (I am an avid reader, and for 12 month allowed myself to read nothing but poker literature). I was acutely aware that strict bankroll management is one of the most important aspects of professional poker, so I never invested more than 2% of my bankroll in a single SNG or Tournament, and never more than 5% of my bankroll into a single cash game. Some players have more liberal bankroll management than this, and some have more conservative, but I found this acceptable.

At this level I was only able to play 1c/2c cash games, and SNGs and Tournaments of no more than $1 buy in. I had told myself that under no circumstances was I to ever make another deposit online, so I played as though this $50 was all the money I had in the world.

I found that I was most successful at the SNGs at this level, so that became my primary focus. As my bankroll grew to $100, then $500, then $1000, I continued moving up the limits, keeping always within the 2% requirements that I had set for myself. I played a great deal of Double or Nothing SNGs, and also 18 player SNGs, which I found to be quite profitable. I played comparatively few tournaments, simply because I found the variance and time commitment made them prohibitive.

I also made a conscious effort to steadily increase the number of tables that I played. Once I started playing more than 6 tables I got a 2^nd computer screen, and once I was playing more than 12 tables I added another 2 screens to my hardware set up.

By the 2nd of February 2010 I was making enough consistent income to quit my job, about two months ahead of the 2 years I had set myself. At this point I was playing Double or Nothing SNGs almost exclusively, and paying sometimes as much as $20,000 of buyins per day, playing $100 Double or Nothing SNGs 24 tables at a time. My income was only about $50 per hour, which is not much in poker terms, but it was more than enough for me to live comfortably.

Becoming a Professional Poker Player:

When starting out, I still believe that Double or Nothing SNGs can be among the most profitable forms of poker, particularly at the lower buyins (up to about $50). I also feel that the Double or Nothing strategy I have outlined is very effective. At the higher levels there are often multiple players on each table playing almost identical strategies, so it becomes a bit harder to show consistent profit there. As a novice, I believe Double or Nothings, when played with a proper strategy and understanding of stack size interactions, to be one of the most effective ways to build a bankroll.

I also feel that low level regular SNGs are an excellent bankroll builder for new players interested in that format. For low limit Cash Games, since players are generally loose at those stakes, a tight Set Mining strategy is the best strategy to use, and should show consistently good results. The other benefit of playing Cash Games is that you will likely learn the intricacies of the game much faster than if you restrict yourself exclusively to SNGs.

For me, becoming a professional poker player was a conscious decision that was only made possible by clear planning, constant study, discipline, and good bankroll management. There are many players who are superior to me in skill, yet fail in one of the above attributes (most commonly bankroll management).

For those who succeed in becoming a professional poker player, this life is fun, the hours flexible, and the financial remuneration often substantial.

I wish you the best of luck, but more importantly, I hope that you shall play well!

In Texas Hold’em poker, as in every other form of poker, you should only play hands that will show a profit over the long run.

There are usually 3 factors that affect the profitability of a hand in Texas Hold’em Poker:

1. The strength of your hand

2. Your position at the table

3. Your skill level (compared to your opponents)

You may have a moderately strong hand such as 9-9, but if you are in terrible position (say, under the gun), and against the 8 best poker players in the world, you may not be able to show a profit even with a hand such as this.

If you have a very weak hand such as 6-4 offsuit, but you are playing on the Button, and your opponents are all first time players, then you will probably still show a long term profit with a hand even this weak.

This preamble is merely to introduce you to a type of hand that is generally unprofitable for novices, but can be very profitable for intermediate and professional players. These type of hands are:

Suited Connectors

Suited connectors are consecutive cards of the same suit, such as Js-Ts or 6c-7c. A small-suited connector hand would be one like 4d-5d or 5h-6h. Suited connectors are powerful hands because when they flop strongly, the hand is well disguised, and when they miss the flop, they are easy to let go of.

For this reason, suited connectors are considered “Drawing Hands”, because though they rarely flop a made straight or flush, they will often flop a draw to either (or both) of those strong hands. When playing suited connectors, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Suited Connectors Need Good Flops:

A good flop for a suited connector like 7c-8c is either 2 pair, a made straight, a made flush, or a straight draw, flush draw, or combination draw (such as a straight-flush draw or a pair + a straight draw). You aren’t trying to hit merely 1 pair with a suited connector, as that pair will rarely be top pair, and if it is, you are still usually a long way behind any player who holds an overpair. If the flop comes Ac Kd 8s, you must be willing to throw the hand away. This isn’t the flop you wanted, so don’t put any more chips into the pot.

Suited Connectors Benefit from Position:

While all hands are more profitable when played in position, with suited connectors this is particularly true. When you are acting last with a flush or straight draw, you get to see all the action that has happened in front of you, so you can easily calculate the odds you are getting to call. If you have position, you also have less to fear from a player re-raising on the flop after you have called an earlier positioned players bet. For this reason, you should be more inclined to play suited connectors on the button than you would under the gun.

Suited Connectors Need Cheap Flops:

If you take a suited connector like 4c-5c, and then deal out the cards for the flop, turn, and river, you will find that a suited connector only makes a flush or straight about 1 time in 4. In a real game of poker your opponents will usually be betting at you, so it will often cost you some money to see all 5 cards. Because of this, you want to see a flop for the cheapest amount possible. It is no good calling off 20% of your stack preflop, as you will very rarely hit a flop that you like. Seeing a flop for just 1 blind, preferably from the button is often the best way to profit from suited connectors. Putting any more than 3%-5% of your stack into the pot preflop with a suited connector is rarely a good idea.

Consider a Semi-Bluff with your Draws:

If you flop a big draw with your suited connectors (such as an open ended straight draw + a flush draw, giving you as many as 15 outs) and the size of the pot is large, you may want to consider moving all in as a semi-bluff. This move can give you multiple ways to win: All your opponents might fold, and you take the pot down with what is currently a worthless hand (such as 7 high), or you get called and win a massive pot if your draw makes it. This is a powerful move as with 14 outs you are approximately even money to win the hand, even against an opponent with a hand as strong as an overpair! If you have 15 outs, such as the straight-flush draw, then you are often a favourite to win the hand by the river! If the pot is small and moving in would be a massive overbet, It might be best to make a smaller bet than all in, or you could go for a check-raise.

Suited Connectors can be some of the most profitable hands to play, but make sure that you play them only in situations that are to your advantage.

It is well known that in poker, it is best to have position on your opponent. Position means that for the duration of the hand, your opponents must act before you, allowing you to see their actions and take them into account, while your opponents must act effectively “in the dark” because they don’t yet know what you are going to do. Almost every Texas Hold ‘em strategy guide talks about the importance of positional advantage, and with good reason; If you can try and play the majority of your pots in position, you will have an advantage over the other players on the table. A competent player can sometimes take reduce or eliminate his opponents advantage, by using aggression to counteract his opponents positional advantage.

Poker Out Of Position:

As an example, lets’ consider typical No-Limit Texas Hold ‘em hand. In this instance, let us say that you are in the big blind with 8c-9c. The player on the button raises to three times the big blind (which is pretty standard) and you call call. Most players in your position would check the flop 100% of the time here. This is called “checking to the aggressor” and is perhaps the most over-used move in the poker world, particularly in tournament play where it is often not the best way to play the hand. By checking, you give the initiative to the button raiser. He will often bet whether or not he has a hand (called a C-Bet or Continuation bet), putting you in a difficult situation if you didn’t hit a piece of the flop.

In this sort of a situation, it’s often a good idea to look at the flop and ask yourself, “Is this flop likely to have hit my opponents hand?” If you can decide on a probable answer to that question, you can decide how best to proceed in the hand.

Flop Texture Out of Position:

If the flop comes with 3 high cards such as Ad-Qh-7c, it’s often best to just check and fold to a bet, particularly if your opponent raised from early position, as most players who raise do so with big cards likely to connect with that flop. However, if the flop is Td-5c-2c, then it is much less likely that your opponent’s hand improved. In texas Hold’em, the chances of two unpaired hole cards making a pair on the flop is only about 1 time in 3. That means that 2 thirds of the time your opponent will miss a flop like this completely.

I the texture of the flop indicates that your opponent may not have connected, you can take the initiative and make a bet. A bet of about 50% of the pot is usually a good size. On this flop, you actually have a flush draw, so betting is a good idea for several reasons: You might win the pot straight away if your opponent only has 2 high cards or a low pair, Or your opponent might call, but fold to another bet on the turn. You might even make your flush and win a big pot off an opponent who was calling with a hand such as A-T. If you are able to get any reads on your opponent, they can help dictate whether you are better off betting again (a semi-bluff) or if you should just check-fold your hand.

Betting when Out of Position:

Taking shots when out of position can be a very profitable strategy, particularly in tournaments where every pot is important. Playing aggressively is always going to be a good strategy, and most people will give your out of position bets a lot of respect, simply because they are used to players out of position checking to the aggressor. Players in tournaments particularly will often give up on weak or medium strength hands, because they know that losing all their chips means that are out of the tournament. Players in cash games will often be more inclined to call with weak hands, as they can always put more money on the table if they bust out.

Let aggression be your friend, and take the initiative, even when out of position. In this way, you can win plenty of pots that would have otherwise gone to play player in position.

The importance of picking a good seat at the poker table is vastly underrated by both novice and intermediate players alike. Even the same cards turning out in the same order will result in vastly different outcomes depending on where you’re sitting compared to the other players at the table. Hands that are profitable when played in late positions will often be extremely unprofitable if played in earlier positions.

Positions in Poker:

First some poker terminology: If you are first, second or third to play, you are said to be in ‘early’ position (the very first to act is also referred to as ‘Under The Gun’) If you are sitting in the dealer position (also known as ‘The Button’) or are one or two seats to the right of the dealer position you are said to be in ‘late’ position. All players seated between early and late positions are referred to as ‘middle’ position.

Early Position in Poker:

If you are in ‘early’ position, the type of hands that you play must be predominately strong hands i.e.: big pairs or AK in a game of Texas Hold’em. The reason you must restrict your self to principally strong hands is because you have no way of knowing what other later players are holding, and if they later raise or re-raise your bet, you will have to fold all but your strongest hands. Therefore, folding your weak hands when in early position will allow you to save your chips for more profitable situations and positions.

Middle Position in Poker:

When playing in ‘middle’ position, you will still have to be aware that the players behind you may bet or raise if you play the hand, and that they will have the advantage of seeing you act first for the remainder of the hand. You still need to play mostly high quality hands from middle position, but as there are less players remaining to act, you can afford to be a little bit more liberal in your starting hands. Additionally, you will be in a later position than any players who may have already entered the pot, so you will “have position” on them throughout the hand.

Late Position in Poker:

When you are in ‘late’ position you have the advantage of having seen almost every other players action so far in the hand. You will have a rough idea about how highly each player before you rates their hand by whether they have merely called, raised, or re-raised. You will also get to see what your opponents do on the Flop, Turn and River betting rounds, allowing you to make better decisions. Additionally, if you enter the pot from late position, there is a much lower chance that someone acting after you will raise, as there are only the Button player and the players in the Blinds to worry about. All these advantages mean that you can often play a wide range of hands from late position, including suited connectors, suited aces, small pairs, and even hands with a gap in them such as 7-9.

Button Position in Poker:

If you are on ‘the Button’ you are last to act in each betting round, and you usually only have 2 players to act after you (the two Blinds) so you can play an extremely wide range of hands. Some extremely experienced players may find that almost every hand is playable from the button, as the ability to bluff, and the ability to get maximum value out of your good hands is greatest when playing from the Button position.

The ‘Blind’ Position in Poker:

When you are in one of the ‘blind’ positions, you benefit from having to call a smaller amount to play, as you already have some money in the pot. You will however be out of position for the remainder of the hand, which will not only make it harder for you to bluff, but will also make it harder to get paid on your big hands. For this reason, it is usually a good idea to play moderately tightly from the blinds, using a similar range that you would use in ‘middle’ position.

For a more detailed look at the hand ranges you should be using, have a look ar the Preflop Poker Strategy page.

There is a common saying in the poker world: “If you are the 8^th best player in the world and you are on a table with the top 7 players, then YOU are the fish on the table.” This is a trap that even the top players fall into sometimes. If the players on your table are better than you, more experienced than you, and seem to be out-playing you constantly, then you need to change tables. Obviously if you are in a tournament and you find yourself on a table filled with pros, you are pretty much stuck there until the table breaks. In a cash game however, there is no such reason to hang around, and you probably shouldn’t. You may be a winning player at the 25c/50c tables online, but perhaps you can’t seem to make any headway on the 50c/$1 tables. In this situation, you need to either move back down to a lower level, or play on a smaller site which generally has worse players.

Table Selection in Poker is extremely important. Don’t allow yourself to believe that you have just been getting unlucky if you keep losing time and time again. You can get unlucky for 1 session, or for a few sessions, but if you are still consistently losing money after 10 or more sessions against a particular set of players, then they are too tough for you to play with at the moment, and you need to change tables. Don’t worry about getting your money back or getting revenge on the guy that keeps re-raising you preflop. If you are losing money at your table, you don’t have good table image, and it will be extremely difficult to get your money back if your opponents are competent..

This is particularly important if the game gets game gets short-handed (6 or less players). When the game is short handed, you are forced to play more hands against the solid players on the table, which is rarely going to be the most profitable way to spend your time! Find a different table, and only play against these players again once you are convinced you have learned enough and gained enough experience to counter their strategies and playing styles.

Use a 4 Color Deck Online at almost every poker site online, since almost all sites now offer players the ability to use a four-color deck. Four-color poker decks are popular, and with good reason too. Everyone who has played a long enough poker session has probably misread their cards at some point or another, and flushes are the most easy to misread. Using a four colored deck makes it much easier to identify flushes, or to identify flush draw potentials, and shaves off a split second that it takes to you read the board.

If you are playing multiple tables online, this benefit is magnified significantly, as a split second of time saved on each hand on each of 12 tables translates to a lot of extra time available for more complicated decision-making.